Surfing Pembrokeshire: The windswept shores of west Wales

I find myself writing a lot about the coast on this blog, but in Pembrokeshire (the westernmost county of Wales) it’s inescapable. Nowhere in the region is more than 10 miles from tidal water, and National Geographic rates its coastline the second best in the world. It’s also home to the UK’s only national park established explicitly because of the seashore. Oh, and did I mention this post is about surfing.

When I first dreamed up this article, I thought I might be able to cover all of Pembrokeshire’s beaches, but it turns out there are over 50 of them. I needed a way to narrow the field, and so I turned to Magic Seaweed, the internet’s pre-eminent purveyor of swell information (other surf forecasts are available). The site lists 11 beaches in the county, ringing the nautical perimeter from Poppit Sands in the north to Tenby South in the, well, south. And so, with my shiny new softboard on the roof and winter wetsuit in the boot, I set out to see them.

1) Poppit Sands

Lying on the estuary where the River Teifi flows into Cardigan Bay, Poppit Sands is a sweeping expanse of hard-packed strand backed by dunes. The area doesn’t get much swell during the summer, but if you do decide to hit the waves here, then watch out for a rip up by the river mouth. It’s very popular with wildlife, so you might just find yourself sharing the waters with bottlenose dolphins or Atlantic grey seals. If you’re in need of more adrenaline, the hard sand below the high-tide line is perfect for kite landboarding.

2) Abereiddy

Brooding dark sands flanked by outcrops of volcanic rock, the beach at Abereiddy (pronounced aber-eye-thee) looks like fertile ground for a Sunday afternoon murder mystery. There’s a reef on the left-hand side that works at certain stages of the tide, and waves also break over sand in the centre. Just around the corner to the north lie the turquoise waters of the Blue Lagoon, a former slate quarry that the local fisherman turned into a harbour after it flooded. This is a well-known area for coasteering, and Red Bull even set-up a 27m platform here in 2012 for the Cliff Diving World Series.

3) Whitesands Bay

A beautiful, if very popular, beach break, the best waves at Whitesands are to be found near the headland on the north side of the bay. Bonus points for the variety of flavours available at the ice cream kiosk; minus ones for the parking attendant, who will emerge to demand £5 cash only, regardless of your length of stay. Once you’ve enjoyed the surf, take a hike up the nearby Carn Llidi for stunning views out to Ramsey Island. Rumour has it that St Patrick himself set sail from this beach in 432AD on his mission to convert Ireland to Christianity and ruin the careers of its herpetologists.

4) Newgale

I’ll always have a soft spot for Newgale, as it was my local beach during my stay in Pembrokeshire. Sheltered by the sweeping, curved horns of St Brides Bay, the swell height tends to be a foot or so lower than the likes of Whitesands and Freshwater West, but is still fantastic on its day. You just can’t beat finishing work for the evening and heading down for a sunset surf on this two-mile stretch of west-facing perfection. At low tide, the waters recede to reveal soft tracts of sand, but on a stormy high, waves lash against the pebble barrier that protects the pub and surf shop.

5) Broadhaven

A short hop along the coast from Newgale, this is a very mellow beach break well suited to beginners. On a windy day, you’ll also see a parade of kite surfers skimming across the waves here. Right next to the shore is the traditional seaside village of Broad Haven, with a promenade and small selection of cafés (surfing is thirsty work after all). Watch out for strange men in silver suits – a spate of UFO sightings here in the late 1970s led to the area acquiring the moniker “Broad Haven triangle”, after it’s more famous Bermudan counterpart.

6) Marloes Sands

A wild, windswept bay of glimmering blue waters and rugged cliffs, Marloes is the place to come when you just want to get away from it all and channel your inner Romantic poet. Bring a picnic, as the only facilities here are those furnished by nature. There’s a National Trust car park just beyond the northern end, which of course means free parking for middle-class couples aged 40 and over. I decided to give the surf here a miss after reading a review that notes “hellish lumps of bedrock poke up through the otherwise sandy beach.” Probably not one for beginners.

7) West Dale

With a similar secluded character to neighbouring Marloes, West Dale is a narrower beach hemmed in by a ring of rock faces. Access is via a steep staircase cut into the cliffs on the east side. Another one for experienced surfers only – hazards include strong rips, submerged outcrops and unpredictable currents. On the plus side, the rugged terrain offers excellent scrambling possibilities, and when the tide is out, you can clamber round to the next bay. Enjoy the views out to Skokholm Island, a haven for puffins, guillemots and gannets. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, head to The Griffin in the nearby village of Dale for soothing harbour views and award winning seafood.

8) Freshwater West

If this place looks familiar to you, then perhaps you recognise it as the scene of Dobby’s demise in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. It also played host to 600 extras and 150 horses for the French invasion sequence in Russel Crowe’s interestingly accented rendition of Robin Hood (2010). Although the location is pretty remote, the consistent surf attracts a lot of visitors on sunny summer weekends. It’s predominantly a beach break with a bunch of sandbanks that can create sudden, powerful waves, though there are also reef breaks at the southern end. A visit to the legendary Café Môr, with its hearty street food covered in KelpChup (aka seaweed ketchup), is mandatory.

9) Freshwater East

A broad, benign bay of fine-grained golden sand, you might as well leave the surfboard at home during the summer months, since the waters of this east facing beach are mostly flat. Apparently, it can come alive here in big winter swells, with a powerful shore break known for its board-snapping potential. There’s a sleepy village set on the cliffs above the bay, once popular with Victorian bathers. A century earlier, the beach was a stopping point for ships to take on fresh water (hence the name), and became notorious for smugglers stashing contraband in the red sandstone cliffs.

10) Manorbier

Four miles along the coastal path from Freshwater East and you arrive on the sandy shoreline of Manorbier (pronounced man-er-beer). A south-west oriented beach, it picks up similar swells to the other Atlantic facing entries on this list. I’ve only surfed the beach break, but there’s also a scattered reef break to the right-hand side of the bay, if you’re happy to contend with the rocks. Behind lie the curtain walls and squat limestone towers of Manorbier castle, founded in the 11^th century. Since then, it’s been sacked by Parliamentarians during the English Civil War and used as Cair Paravel in the BBC’s 1989 adaptation of The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe.

11) Tenby South

If there’s one place in Pembrokeshire everyone knows about, it’s Tenby. With the old town castle walls and bright pastel-coloured buildings, it’s the quintessence of Welsh seaside living. Tenby South seldom sees rideable waves in the summer – you’re more likely to spot kids in inflatable rings than seasoned surfers. But it’s still a pleasant two-mile stretch of golden sand to while away the afternoon and sip a waterfront pint at Salty’s Beach Bar as the sun goes down. Follow the coast path north through shady forests and rocky coves to the harbour village of Saundersfoot, with views across to Pendine Sands. But don’t be wandering over there. That’s Carmarthenshire.

If you enjoyed reading this article, be sure to check out my previous posts about the 10 best things to do in North Devon and How I didn’t learn to surf. And remember, if you haven’t fallen off the board, then you probably haven’t been riding long enough.