They say the sun always shines in Xàbia. Meteorologically speaking, that’s not entirely accurate, but at 325 days of annual sunshine, I’m not one to complain. No doubt the fabulous climate has played its part in enticing the expats and second homers who dominate the town. A place for immersion in traditional Spanish life this is not, but for me it still has heaps of appeal. Rugged cliffs, hidden coves, golden beaches and sunset cocktails – let’s get started with the top 10.
1) Play beach volleyball at Playa del Arenal
The town of Xàbia sits on a bay, bounded at the northern end by Cap de Sant Antoni and at the southern by Cap Prim. The long, rocky stretch of connecting coastline is broken only once by an inlet harbouring palm trees and fine sand. Here is a perfect spot to string up a net and burn off some energy with this quintessential beach sport. If you’re as naturally pasty as me, then that won’t be the only thing you’re burning, so stock up on the sunscreen before you head down.
2) Surf at Playa del Arenal
These being the sedate waters of the Med, the area is not exactly renowned as a surfer’s paradise, but every so often something stormier rolls in with the tide. The transformation from rippling millpond to crashing waves can occur in just a few hours. Then, all the local surf junkies come out of the woodwork and rush to the waters. Fortunately, it’s a pretty friendly scene all round, and rookies will be forgiven the odd breach of etiquette. After your session, head up to the paved crescent surrounding the beach, with its selection of bars, coffee shops, restaurants and ice cream parlours. I spent a memorable Halloween night at the Taverna Octopus, before the police closed it down for some fairly flagrant Covid violations. One suspects, though, it will be back…
3) Eat tapas at Bar El Clavo
Should you find yourself in search of sustenance near the port, look no further than El Clavo’s traditional Spanish snacks. Take a table in the sunshine, and enjoy generous helpings of fresh squid, patatas bravas (fried potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce) and chopitos (lightly battered cuttlefish). It may be hard to believe in such idyllic surroundings, but one legend has it that tapas were first invented by the Spanish Inquisition to identify Jews who hadn’t converted to Christianity. Pork was commonly among the dishes served, and so a refusal to accept the meal was seen as an admission of guilt. Now, I wasn’t expecting that.
4) Climb Montgo
As Etna is to Catania, so Montgo is to Xàbia. A freestanding shark’s fin rising 753m into the sky, it is an irresistible draw for the eye, wherever you are about town. The route from the suburbs to the start of the climb proper is somewhat obscure and involves scaling a stone wall to reach the sliced off remnant of a concrete staircase. From there, you quickly leave the urban sprawl behind and can drink in vistas of wave-lapped coast and distant peaks. On a crisp day, you can even see Ibiza shimmering on the horizon, suspended in that liminal space between reality and mirage.
5) Lunch on paella at Restaurante Mezquida
Paella Valenciana takes some adjusting to. Containing neither seafood nor chorizo, the protein is provided by a mixture of chicken, rabbit and pork. Try this traditional dish on the light and airy terrace of Restaurante Mezquida. For the full experience, you must have it served in the paellera, with the al dente, saffron-coated rice faintly caramelised against the scorching iron pan. Pair with a crisp, citrusy glass of Naxus white wine, and relish its cool contrast with the warm Mediterranean sun. If you still have room for more, then be sure to sample the luxuriantly smooth almond tart with Marsala laced crème caramelle and a digestif of sweet Muscadelle.
6) Hike (half) the Ruta de los Miradores
Thanks to my inability to interpret Spanish tourist websites, I came up with the spurious idea of a continuous hiking trail connecting all 15 of the miradores (viewpoints) along this stunning section of the Costa Blanca. Regrettably, the last 7 actually require long stretches of tarmac trekking, so my recommendation is to tackle only the first 8 on foot. This is still a beautiful day out, taking in soaring cliffs, sandy beaches, Medieval windmills and Roman canals. Start from Els Molins (the mills), head east to the lighthouse at Cap de Sant Antoni, and then wind your way south along the coast all the way to the beachside bar at Cala Barraca.
7) Explore Cova Tallada
Beyond the long spur that extends from Montgo’s eastern flank, there is a precipitous path leading down to a hidden cavern. On reaching the ocean, traverse the jagged walkway and enter a soaring domed chamber. Water floods in at one opening, allowing intrepid sea kayakers to paddle right on inside. Beyond, there is a dusty scramble into the tunnel systems, which bore deep into the heart of the cliffs. Bring a torch (or more likely your phone light) and experience the thrill of penetrating this warren of subterranean passageways.
8) Take a wine tour at Les Freses
Nothing is wasted in this organic vineyard on the outskirts of Jesús Pobre. The grape stems go back to the soil as fertiliser and invigorating oils are extracted from the husks for use in skincare products. Some varieties are matured in bulbous clay pots, made according to the designs of the Iberians who called this land home in the seventh century BC. All the grapes are muscadelle, and I discovered that they can make a fine dry white, as well as the familiar sweet, fortified concoction. You may also get a chance to try the local hueva, an intense umami paste made from tuna, described to me rather unflatteringly as fish chewing gum.
9) Cycle to Denia
Lying just a few kilometres to the north of Xàbia, this coastal town hosts a port and Medieval castle. Ferries leave regularly for the Balearic Islands and there is a long stretch of sandy beach beyond the town proper. Hire a bike from Siesta Advisor and make a clockwise circuit of Montgo on Sunday for the best experience. This will mean you can pause for local delicacies at the weekly food market in Jesús Pobre, which features barbecued meats and homemade pastries. Enjoy the sweeping descent into Denia, then make for the port area. Further refreshments on the quayside are available. Avoid too much of a feeding frenzy though, as the final ascent back over the headland to Xàbia is no pushover.
10) Climb at Cova del Llop Marí
The rock of the Costa Blanca is unstintingly sharp. Its serrated edges offer a fine selection of route possibilities, but you wouldn’t want to fall on it. I skinned both my knees by barely caressing the rock, so I can only imagine the vivisection it could perform on a flailing forearm. Xàbia Activa offers beginner groups, or, if you’ve climbed before, it’s worth a private session to uncover the best spots. Come autumn in the UK, the rockfaces are often cold and damp, but, here in Xàbia, you can still work on your tan above turquoise bays. Bird brains may not be renowned for their pearls of wisdom, but flying south for the winter seems a mighty fine lifestyle choice to me.