The vast granite monolith of El Capitan rising sheer from the pine carpets of Yosemite Valley. The forbidding frozen corridor of Point Five Gully on Ben Nevis rimed with blue ice. The dark spires of the Torres del Paine poking holes in a cloudless Chilean sky. When we think of climbing, we think of the lone figure clinging to these gargantuan natural sculptures, suspended above dazzling depths.
But not all climbing is like that. For beginners it certainly isn’t. And, in many sport climbing circles, hard single pitch routes are all the rage. A little digression into terminology is needed here. Single pitch routes are those climbed by the leader in one continuous effort. Generally, they are limited in height to half a rope length, such that the leader can be lowered to the ground at any time. Multi-pitch routes, by contrast, have two or more sections separated by intermediate belay stances. At the top of each pitch, the leader stops, anchors themself to the rock, and brings up the second.
Learning to multi-pitch opens up whole new worlds of climbing potential. No longer confined to modest-sized crags and cliffs with convenient walk-offs, the tantalizing prospect of big walls and iconic mountains come within reach.
But multi-pitch routes should not be taken lightly. Retreat is far more difficult and, if someone gets injured, it may be an all-day epic trying to get them off. There are traverses, new kinds of rope work and the prospect of factor two falls (where the leader ends up dangling below their belayer). The mental game ramps up a notch in the grander settings of multi-pitch. Moves that might seem trivial off the ground take on a whole new character when performed on the edge of a 100m slab.
Still though, it’s all part of the learning process, and there comes a time in every climbing career when one must answer the call of a route too long for a single rope. For me, the call came this December on the sunny shores of the Costa Blanca. These were my first three multi-pitches:
1) Cilber
Following a line of weakness up to the undulating splendour of Toix Ridge, this 150m route consists of five pitches with comfortable belay stances. Due to an abundance of ledges, the climbing never feels massively exposed, though it is run out in some sections. Carry a trad rack to plug the gaps.
The crux comes on the second pitch with a clamber up an awkward, but fairly well-protected, crack. Watch out also for a tricky start to the final pitch, which requires you to negotiate a protruding bulge inside a corner. Once you’ve gained the ridge, there’s an exhilarating scramble to the summit, with the coastal town of Calp spread out below you.
2) Magical Mystery Tour
Aptly named, this route begins with an overhanging 50m abseil to a cave set in a long row of sea cliffs. The first two pitches are basically scrambling. If you have the skills for the climb ahead, then you can probably manage them unroped.
Pitch three is where it get serious with an exposed and committing move around an arete. Fortunately, the hand and foot placements are all solid, and from there, it’s up into a scoop to belay. The fifth and final pitch is the crux, with more sustained and technical climbing, though it’s never desperate. Back on the clifftop, relax in the sunshine, and appreciate how much more benign the sea appears when there’s no longer the risk of tumbling into it.
3) Via Valencianos
Taking one of the easier routes up the 332m limestone outcrop of the Peñón de Ifach, this is a varied climb done in seven or eight pitches (the top two are short enough to combine). Walking into the imposing theatre of textured white rock gives a grand sense of scale and a foretaste of the exposure ahead.
The first couple of pitches are quite scrappy and overgrown, taking you into a corner with a crack slanting up to the right. This is the crux and has been polished by countless feet to the slipperiness of an oil slick. Expect to pull on your gear to get through. Above, the route returns to the main slab for more gentle climbing, albeit poised above a dizzying slide. Pitch number six presents the final real challenge, with an airy move around a bulge to get the adrenaline flowing. At the summit, you’ll find designer sunglass wearing tourists taking Insta pics from the hiking trail, heedless of the drama unfolding on the great stage below.
If you enjoyed reading this article, check out my other posts on fear of falling while climbing and conquering the Inaccessible Pinnacle.
Photo credits
El Capitan – Adam Kadhim